One of the biggest concerns some clients have is the risk of extensions ruining their natural lashes. This risk is minimal, however, as long as you understand the weight ratios for different lashes.

As a lash artist, it is important to understand how your client’s natural lashes can affect their extensions. While it’s your job to create their dream look, it is also your job to be truthful and protect your client’s natural lashes.

Let’s take a look at some of the most important factors to remember when applying lash extensions.

Natural Lash Health & Type

As a lash technician, your priority is lash health. So, it’s always important to take the type of lashes into account when designing a voluminous look and applying eyelash extensions.

The length and strength of the natural lash will determine how much weight it can handle and how many extensions it can support. The golden rule in lash application is that the thicker the natural lashes, the more extensions they can support.

Some natural lashes simply cannot handle the weight of long, thick extensions.

The ideal natural eyelash for extensions is strong, long, thick and with a gentle curl. However, we know that you’re unlikely to have many clients with perfect lashes. It is your job to be honest with your client and explain the risks of applying heavy extensions. Discuss with your client different options to create voluminous looks that will bond securely to their natural lashes.

If your client’s lashes are weaker, thin or very straight you will need to adapt to create their desired look without placing stress on the natural lashes.

Creating lash looks is an art, and as such, there is almost always a workaround and a way to create the perfect voluminous look, even for clients with weak, thin or straight lashes.

One of the go-to techniques for this situation is the Russian technique. Russian Volume lashes are superlight, fanned out and bond better to smaller, thin lashes.

The volume handmaker lash artists have a huge advantage in this situation. Using thinner diameter (0.07mm, 0.06mm, 0.05mm, or 0.03mm) individual lashes can be created in one beautiful fan and can be helpful for clients who are wanting voluminous lashes. The thinner the diameter, the lighter the volume fans will be. But of course, it is great to ask your volume trainer about the lash weight calculations to properly assess the maximum thickness you can apply to one weak natural lash.

Lash Growth

Just like any other hair on our bodies, some natural eyelashes grow quicker than others. Each person is different and their lashes will have a unique growth cycle.

While using extensions will not affect the growth rate or rejuvenation of your lashes, it can affect how often you will need to get them infilled or reapplied. This is because, when your lashes grow they eventually fall out. As your natural lashes fall out your extensions will also fall out in the same cycle.

Oil Content

Lash glue and extensions bond more securely to a clean, dry lash line or lashes. It’s important to take note whether your client’s lashes are naturally dry or oily.

For oily lashes, you will need to use a lash cleanser and apply lash primers before applying the extensions to ensure optimal retention. Recommend to your clients to stick to a more strict cleaning process after application to ensure oil build-up does not occur and weaken the bond over time.

Risk of Damage

I know we have been discussing how natural lashes affect extensions, but I just want to take a quick moment to discuss the reverse.

One of the biggest concerns that many clients have is the risk of extensions ruining their natural lashes. I want to start by saying that this risk is minimal, as long as you understand the weight ratios for different lashes.

Your client also plays a big role when it comes to looking after their lashes. Aftercare is important and must be followed daily.

The risk of damage to natural lashes is extremely low. However, it is important to explain the aftercare routine clearly and encourage your clients to follow it. This will ensure their extensions will last a long time and their natural lashes stay healthy.

You can visit our website, or book one of our lash training courses to learn more about how to apply extensions correctly and create new, stunning looks for your clients.